Overview
It's always interesting to see people's wide-eyed reactions when you mention you're going to an unusual, hard-to-pronounce, little-known destination.
That’s exactly what happened when I decided to visit Azerbaijan.
Not many people can point it out on a map, let alone its capital, Baku.
I first heard about it from 2 backpackers in Peru, on the floating islands of Lake Titicaca.
We were chatting about travel over a hot tea to help with the altitude sickness on a chilly evening.
I still remember the look on a French couple’s faces as they tried to describe the sensations and scents of this semi-unknown land.
It was as if they couldn’t quite “paint” it for me.
What better reason to go and discover it for myself?
Itinerary and Tips
DAY - 1
Arriving at Aliyev Airport already gave me a sense of Baku’s unique identity — a kind of mini-Dubai with a historic side rich in attractions.
The hotel I picked, Shirvanshah, is inside the old city walls, meaning taxis don’t dare venture into the narrow streets. So I had to walk the last few meters, wheeling my suitcase over cobblestones from the gate of the Old Town to the hotel.
I got to my room late at night, already reflecting on the first glimpses I’d caught of the city: modern, luxurious buildings contrasting with ancient streets, all while the iconic Flame Towers stood majestically in the distance.
The next morning, from the hotel rooftop during a delicious breakfast, I took in the full 360-degree view around me. What a mix of old and new! I couldn’t wait to hit the streets.
I started my self-guided tour with the Taza Pir Mosque, towering over the old neighborhoods where cobblers, carpenters, and bakers work to the steady rhythm of Azeri life.
The walk led me to the Ali Shamsi Workshop, which is really just a wall with some artistic installations — nice for a quick photo and then you're off!
The highlight of the morning was the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. After paying the entrance fee, I explored the palace, the tombs, the cistern, and the ancient bathhouse. Absolutely worth it.
Other key stops in the city include Baylar Mosque, Cuma Mosque, and Qiz Qalasi Tower.
Across from Qiz Qalasi, you can recharge at Cay Bagi 145, where the outdoor seating with domes is unforgettable.
It was June, and the heat was intense, so I took frequent breaks — luckily, there are plenty of spots to enjoy a refreshing pomegranate juice.
Out of curiosity, I decided to check out Little Venice. I’m not a fan of cities that get compared to the one and only Venice. That place is unique.
While the walk along the seafront was nice, I’d say Little Venice is worth no more than 10 minutes of your time.
A few steps away, you’ll find the Carpet Museum. I didn’t go inside, but the exterior is stunning — the building is shaped like a semi-rolled traditional carpet!
My final stop of the day was the Flame Towers. In the evening, they light up with patriotic motifs and are truly breathtaking.
To get there, we took the funicular (which I recommend for both the trip up and down), and after a short walk through the Martyrs' Alley — a sacred place honoring fallen heroes — we reached a viewpoint overlooking both the Flame Towers and the Bay of Baku.
The towers are grand, elegant, and spectacular once their LED lights flicker on.
As the sun sets, the entire bay lights up, and you can’t help but marvel at the sight of ancient mosque minarets blending with ultra-modern buildings in the most unusual shapes.
After dinner, it’s lovely to unwind with a stroll along the boulevard by the Caspian Sea, where locals gather to sing, play guitar, and enjoy the night.
One thing that will surprise you is the faint smell of oil in the air! It’s not unpleasant, just unexpected.
Azerbaijan has vast gas and oil reserves, with large refineries offshore in the Caspian Sea. This wealth is a major part of the country’s prosperity.
DAY - 2
Outside the city center, there are a few must-see spots:
The first is definitely the Gobustan Mud Volcanoes, where dozens of bubbling mud volcanoes will amaze you.
Just a few kilometers away, you can visit an area with petroglyphs dating from 5,000 to 20,000 years ago, showcasing the prehistoric life of the Caucasus.
Another gem is the Ateshgah Fire Temple, the base of Zoroastrianism, with monk cells and a perpetual flame at its center.
You can also visit the nearby Burning Mountain (Yanar Dagh), a hill that has been burning non-stop for decades. It’s not quite as dramatic as the Gates of Hell in Turkmenistan, but still intriguing.
Food
In traditional cuisine, there are a few dishes you absolutely have to try! First, there's Dolma, which are vine leaves stuffed with minced meat, rice, and vegetables. Then, of course, the classic kebab, whether it's chicken or vegetarian. You should also taste Azeri pilaf, which is slightly different from Uzbek pilaf, as it contains various dried fruits. And last but not least, Borek, a savory pastry filled with meat and vegetables like spinach, often spiced to perfection.
The journey continues with more stops across Azerbaijan, including mausoleums, caravanserais, and mountains — but I’ll cover those in another post.
At the airport, on my way back, I finally understood the French couple’s struggle to describe Baku and Azerbaijan. It really is hard to explain. I hope I’ve managed to capture a bit of it in these lines, or at least sparked your curiosity to go see it for yourself.
My impressions
Baku immediately appeared tourist-friendly, with excellent services and general cleanliness.
Like many large cities, the hospitality of the people is somewhat less palpable, though I found it again in Sheki.
The old city is well-preserved, and the country is just beginning to open up to tourism. One memory that stays with me is a glimpse of the Flame Towers seen from the old city.
Top Picks:
-Flame Towers
-Shirvanshah Palace
-Seaside Boulevard Stroll
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