Overview
When it comes to safaris, the first destinations that come to mind are South Africa and Kenya.
These are fantastic places to see the famous Big Five (elephant, lion, buffalo, rhino, and leopard).
The only downside is that safaris are expensive—really expensive. And tourists expect a lot for their money.
Now, depending on the tourist, some are content with spotting a few animals while staying in luxury accommodations.
Others, like me (and let’s be clear, there’s no right or wrong here), choose to minimize costs and maximize the chance of seeing the Big Five, along with some extraordinary landscapes.
And when it comes to this, Tanzania is unmatched.
Backpackers might be disappointed, and like much of Africa, getting around the various parks can be quite challenging, if not impossible. The best way to go is to rely on a local tour operator and book directly through their site.
Using EU or US agencies can cost you double or more.
Route summary
Arusha
All by private 4x4: Lake Manyara
Serengeti
Ngorongoro
Tarangire
Arusha
Accommodation
The tour I chose was simple: a Jeep, a guide (mandatory for entry into certain parks), a driver… oh, and a tent.
I’m not usually into camping, but this seemed like the most authentic way to connect with Tanzania’s nature, and I couldn’t have made a better choice.
I wouldn’t recommend it for those seeking comfort or luxury, and probably not for families with young children. But if you want to come home full of experiences, this is definitely for you!
Itinerary and Tips
DAY -1
My journey began at Arusha airport. Like many African cities, it was chaotic, full of hustle and bustle unique to this part of the world.
Maybe it was the late arrival and exhaustion, but my time in Arusha consisted mainly of a walk around the hotel neighborhood.
DAY -2
The next morning, a Jeep awaited me, with the guide and driver who turned out to be an excellent chef! The city traffic took almost an hour to clear, but once we were out of Arusha, we quickly arrived at the entrance of Lake Manyara Park.
As soon as we entered, we were greeted by a mother and baby giraffe and, just a few meters away, a group of elephants. The excitement was already high, and we were only at the first stop. Lake Manyara offers a memorable landscape, perfect for bird watching. You can see cormorants, flamingos, storks, and even crocodiles and hippos in the natural balance of the wetlands.
After the day’s adventures, it was time to set up camp. Camping on the roadside is not allowed, so the tour operator had booked a campsite for each stop.
Every campsite was fairly clean, rarely had hot water, but almost always had spectacular views—except the first one! The tent was pitched right next to a group of houses and under a noisy streetlamp. I was beginning to regret my choice.
However, the driver/chef amazed me by preparing a delicious meal of traditional polenta and meat using a small camping stove. Bravo!
Fortunately, despite the day’s exhaustion, I managed to get some rest.
DAY -3
The next day involved a lot of driving, heading to the famous Serengeti, passing by the Ngorongoro viewpoint, where I would return in the following days. The road was full of potholes, unpaved sections, and dangerous stretches, but by the afternoon, we reached our destination and began the game drive.
In just a couple of hours, we easily spotted elephants, giraffes, gazelles, buffaloes, warthogs, hippos, crocodiles, colorful lizards, and lions—lots of lions, including cubs, hunting females, and roaring males.
For me, that was enough; I could have gone home satisfied.
But the excitement was just beginning.
Our campsite for the night was in an unfenced area, surrounded by buffaloes, zebras, and who knows what else.
The restrooms were 100 meters from the tent, and I was strongly advised not to use them at night. I thought, “This is really something!”
The night’s roars and hyenas just a meter from the tent kept me awake, but in a thrilling way. The excitement and adrenaline were through the roof!
DAY -4
The next morning, after breakfast, we continued the game drive, and I can’t list all the animals I saw and photographed—there were so many, including buffaloes and zebras starting their migration, stretching as far as the eye could see. It was exhilarating.
But back to the Big Five—rhinos and leopards were still on our list.
In the late afternoon, our guide’s radio crackled with news that we might have a chance. At a safe distance, along with two other Jeeps, we spotted two leopards in a tree. A rare sight, they told us.
We watched them in their elegance, almost hypnotized, and then headed back to camp for dinner and an early night.
The next morning, after passing through local villages, we finally arrived at the Ngorongoro Crater Reserve. A must-see.
It’s a crater about 2,200 meters above sea level, roughly 16 km in diameter, home to a variety of animals all concentrated in a relatively small area.
I was told that the Tanzanian head of state was visiting, which meant some restrictions. I thought, “What bad luck!”
But it turned out to be the opposite—what luck!
All the park guides were eager to find the renowned and rare black rhino for the VIP.
When they finally succeeded, our driver rushed to the area, and we were fortunate to see the fifth Big Five animal, a black rhino! Spectacular.
The Ngorongoro Crater is a wonder, surrounded by the crater rim, where lions, gazelles, and elephants live closely together in a strange equilibrium.
At night, we returned to camp, where unforgettable adventures awaited.
While I was lathering up in the shower area, I heard my guide calling me loudly!
I stepped out in just a towel to find an elephant drinking from the shower water tank just two meters away.
I stood frozen, fascinated. African elephants are twice the size of Asian ones, and you really notice it up close!
The evening passed with the echo of animals from the crater.
DAY -5
The next morning, I opened the tent zipper to find a zebra grazing and looking me straight in the eye. I was the guest here, so I waited patiently.
This magical safari concluded in Tarangire Park.
Here, the landscapes take center stage: canyons carved by rivers, giant baobabs, and lions in trees make this paradise unforgettable.
At Arusha airport, I thought the discomforts of some campsites were more than compensated by the experiences with locals and animals roaming freely around the campsites. I’m fully satisfied!
I doubt I’ll ever have a safari this amazing again. So far, it’s been unparalleled.
My impressions
The first safari is unforgettable.
Doing it in Tanzania makes it even more unique.
I was amazed by the organization of the various parks, though less impressed in some situations where jeeps crowded to see or photograph the animals.
As a tourist, I would feel more comfortable if there were a cap on numbers, out of respect for nature.
I am grateful to Tanzania for providing so many emotions. When I close my eyes, I still feel the lion’s nighttime roar vibrating inside me!
Top Picks:
-Tent camping instead of luxury lodges
-Serengeti Park
-Ngorongoro Crater Park
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