Overview
Everything about the Arab world has always fascinated me—from the deep connection to religion to the mysterious aura that surrounds this region.
What's intriguing is that even within the Arab world, there are so many "sub-worlds."
The Arab culture of the United Arab Emirates is different from that of Jordan, just as Egypt’s Arab culture differs from Morocco’s.
However, they all share one trait that Westerners often struggle to understand: as reserved as they may seem on the surface, once you establish a connection with them—even as simple as a guide-tourist relationship—they open up and become incredibly generous.
Morocco is a perfect example of this, and in this trip, we’ll explore the beauty of Fez, along with a few of its challenges, which, as I’ve personally experienced, are very real.
You can easily reach Fez with a low-cost Ryanair flight from Europe, or via frequent buses from Marrakech.
Accommodation
When it comes to accommodation, there's only one way to go: a traditional Riad, with a traditional breakfast included, and maybe even a pool if you're lucky.
Staying in a Riad gives you an authentic experience and connects you to Moroccan culture—unless, of course, you have a family willing to host you!
You’ll find many opinions about the safety of Moroccan cities. In my experience, with some common sense and a little awareness, I never felt in danger. Sure, there were a few times when someone tried to scam me, but if you know what to expect, you can avoid falling for it.
I’ll explain more in a bit.
Itinerary and Tips
Before I get into what’s worth doing and what’s not, it’s important to understand one thing: Fez, especially the Medina, is a genuine maze.
No matter how good you are at navigating, you will get lost at least once. And often, your phone won’t be much help because the streets are so narrow and the buildings so close together that the GPS signal gets weak.
Now, let's talk about scams. Your confused look and uncertain steps will attract scammers like flies to honey. Sooner or later, someone will approach you and offer to help you find your way. If you accept, they'll probably lead you near their shop first, insist you visit, and then eventually take you where you want to go, expecting payment.
You might feel relieved to have found your way, but my clear advice for Fez is this: hire a guide, preferably through your riad or hotel, or book one online.
Avoid guides you meet on the street, which leads us to the second scam. There are lots of self-proclaimed guides who offer to show you around, but they’ll often take you to their relatives' shops.
I went with a guide arranged by the riad and made sure to get the tour program in advance, so I could approve or modify it as needed. It was a great decision.
Walking through the Medina is fascinating, even outside the main points of interest! You can still spot donkeys carrying spices and fruits through the narrow streets.
There are, of course, some must-see spots like the Quaraouiyine Mosque, the stunning mosaics at Nejjarine Fountain, and the mystical atmosphere of the Madrassas.
Don’t miss the Chouwara Tanneries, where leather is dyed in traditional methods. They’ll give you a sprig of mint when you enter the shop and head to the terrace—trust me, take it! The smell can be pretty overwhelming, and you might need it.
Another highlight is the Souk Attarine, with its amazing aromas of spices, fruits, dates, and the scent of argan oil. The smells will stay with you long after you leave the city.
Food
Lunch in local Moroccan spots often revolves around couscous, but make sure to try the Harira soup or the pigeon pastilla if you can find it. The desserts, typically made with honey and dried fruits, never disappoint, and tea is always present, as are dates.
A perfect end to the day is watching the sunset from Borj North, with the muezzin’s call to prayer adding a magical atmosphere.
As I mentioned before, it’s best to agree in advance on what you want to see with your guide. And if you get along well, you might even end up having dinner together, experiencing the renowned Arab hospitality firsthand!
My impressions
Fez is a city of contrasts, reflecting other Moroccan cities.
On one side is the medina, where the ancient air is palpable, and on the other is the semi-French atmosphere of the modern area.
I prefer the ancient ambiance, but the world is moving fast, and so is Morocco.
For this reason, I hope the people can best preserve the wonders of this labyrinth.
When I think of Fez, I still smell the tannery and hear the sound of donkeys in the narrow streets.
Top Picks:
- The narrow streets of the Medina
- Chouwara Tanneries
Have a question? Drop it in the comments below!
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