Overview
When you think of Morocco, one thing immediately comes to mind: the hustle and bustle of Marrakech’s El Fna Square.
And yes, it’s a must-see, but like many famous attractions, the more time passes, the more touristy it becomes. It’s definitely worth a visit, but what you’ll take home from this trip will be much more than just El Fna.
In this brief journey, I’ll share what I think are the real highlights of magical Marrakech, plus a little extra stop if you have some additional time.
Accommodation
There are some things you just have to do, and staying in a Riad in Morocco is one of them. They come in all types and price ranges.
So if you really want to immerse yourself in the experience, do yourself a favor: skip the big hotel chains and treat yourself to an authentic stay, complete with a traditional breakfast—you won’t regret it!
Itinerary and tips
Good news first: Marrakech is easier to visit than Fez, and you don’t absolutely need a guide.
The bad news: scams are more common here than in Fez, so stay alert.
What kind of scams? Taxi overcharges, so always negotiate the fare beforehand, or fake/unofficial guides who won’t add much to your trip. In El Fna Square, beware of pushy vendors or people trying to get you to pet their chained monkeys (not ethical, to say the least).
But don’t get the wrong impression—I’m not saying the city is a constant danger; it’s not! With a bit of caution, the beauty of Marrakech will be all you remember.
DAY -1
After arriving on an uncomfortable night flight, despite little sleep, I dive right into exploring the city after breakfast—everything on foot! I start with a walk to the Saadian Tombs, the mausoleum of the Saadian dynasty. Its architecture, colors, and courtyards are worth every cent of the ticket. What a way to begin!
Next up is the El Badi Palace, not as well-preserved but equally fascinating. It’s somewhere between a palace and a fortress, with its sandy structure contrasting with the sparse greenery. Two more must-see stops are the Bahia Palace and the Dar Si Said Museum. The intricate tile work, the courtyards with beautifully carved wooden doors—you’ll fall in love.
For sunset, head to the Le Gran Balcon du Café Glacier.
Go early to see the El Fna square come alive and light up. Even though it’s a touristy spot, the Moroccan atmosphere is still something to behold. On the way back to the hotel, I admire the majestic Koutoubia Mosque.
DAY -2
I want to take things slow today, so I savor a traditional Moroccan breakfast at my riad: yogurt, fresh and dried fruit, dozens of pastries, eggs, juice, and tea. Finding a place with excellent breakfasts is part of the whole experience.
Then, I head to the Ben Youssef Madrasa, a former Quranic school with stunning Arab-Andalusian architecture. Sandy-colored walls blend spectacularly with green tiles and wooden roofs! You could easily spend an hour here taking photos.
We continue to Place des Ferblantiers in the heart of the Kasbah for a quick visit and do some local shopping at the central souk, though the stalls can feel repetitive and the crowd overwhelming. A short stop at Souq Attarine, with its thousand spices and tea infusions, and I’m ready for some relaxation... or almost!
Another can’t-miss experience is the Hammam. There are private ones in hotels and public ones along the streets. Both are excellent choices. I opted for more privacy and had the Hammam ritual at my riad. It’s a whole ritual, deeply connected to Muslim traditions, with a series of steps to follow. First, a quick wash, then into the warm room where you’re lathered in black soap, followed by an exfoliating scrub—whether by yourself or by a very enthusiastic attendant! Finally, you rinse off and relax with tea and drinks in the final room. It's an experience that cleanses both body and mind!
To wrap up the day, I take a mini-cooking class, learning how to make lamb tagine with prunes and almonds, and a delicious vegetarian couscous. If you can find an authentic spot, it’s well worth the hour or two!
DAY -3
My first planned stop is 4km from the riad, and I intended to take a taxi, but I decided to walk instead—and I don’t regret it! These spontaneous walks in new places are the best way to feel the true essence of daily life. I arrive at the Majorelle Garden, a beautiful botanical garden definitely worth the entry fee! Inside, there’s also a small Yves Saint Laurent exhibition. Late morning, I head to the Funduq in Rue Mouassine, a noisy area with charming, often run-down alleys that are strangely intriguing. I find myself in the tannery district almost by accident. If you’ve already visited Fez or plan to, you can skip these—they’re nothing compared to the tanneries in Fez.
In the evening, I join some locals for a meal of roasted lamb at a food stall and get tips on what to see the next day. They suggest places I’ve already visited, so since I have an extra day, I decide to make a day trip to Essaouira. The riad quickly arranges a driver for me for the next day.
DAY -4 (EXTRA)
At 8:00 a.m., my driver is ready, and it takes about 3 hours to reach Essaouira, a coastal city known for its fishing, fortifications, and hippy vibe. The initial impact is powerful, with the port, hundreds of boats, fortifications, and intense colors and smells! In the morning, fishermen are still coming back with their catches, selling crates of unidentifiable fish. Cats linger around, hoping for lunch.
I climb the ramparts of the Sqala to admire the view from above—it’s totally worth the small fee. The view over the medina is stunning! I slowly stroll through Place Moulay Hassan, with its ancient gates, and lose myself in the characteristic alleys of this port town. I spot the clock tower and Bab Doukkala, the gateway to the Jewish Quarter. After a seafood lunch (cooked!), I take one last walk before heading back to Marrakech.
Essaouira isn’t a must-see, but if you have a day to spare, it’s certainly worth a visit!
And with that, my “break” in Marrakech comes to an end. The next day, I fly back home!
My impressions
Marrakech is different from Fez, where the atmosphere is still that of a small town. Marrakech, with its Arabic and sometimes French influences, is always buzzing, trying to keep up with the times.
I wouldn’t say the soul of Marrakech is found in El Fna Square—at least not just there—but rather in the ancient palaces and madrasas with their colorful mosaics and carvings.
The cultural heritage is vast and well-preserved.
As a tourist, I almost always felt welcome, although at times I did feel like a “walking dollar bill.”
But as with any trip, it’s up to us to capture the essence of a place—and in Marrakech, that’s not hard to do!
Food
Don’t miss out on the tagine and couscous, but also try the roasted lamb, pastilla, lamb skewers, and briouats—filo pastry rolls filled with meat, and sometimes sweet! Eating well in Marrakech isn’t hard—just avoid the overly touristy spots and head to the market areas!
Top Picks:
-Koutoubia Mosque
-Hammam
-Dar Si Said Museum
Have a question? Drop it in the comments below!
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