Santiago de Chile and Surroundings / Blog

Overview

As a child, when I looked at the map of Chile, I was fascinated by its narrow and elongated shape—rugged terrain with towering mountains, deserts, and ocean. A culture shaped by colonialism, dictatorships, and natural disasters, which have forged a humble and dignified people. In this article, I'll share some of the intense experiences I had in northern Chile.

Route summary

Santiago de Chile

private car to Valparaiso

Viator tour to Cajon del Maipo

Flight to San Pedro the Atacama

Accommodation

I stayed in an apartment in downtown Santiago at San Francisco 335. I chose a budget option since hotel prices were high (more than triple what I paid for the apartment). It turned out to be a great choice—the only downside was having to go out each morning to buy breakfast and coffee. I'm not exactly a morning person, and I prefer hotel breakfasts when I'm on vacation

Itinerary

Day -1

I arrived in Santiago late in the morning, and within 30 minutes by taxi, I was in the city center, ready to explore.

I walked to the Paris-Londres district, which, as the name suggests, has a European feel, with streets reminiscent of Paris and London.

In the middle of it, on Calle Londres 38, lies a tragic piece of history—this place was used as a prison and torture site during Pinochet's regime.

A few minutes' walk brought me to the bohemian Bellavista district, full of murals, bars, and restaurants.

I returned here in the evening for dinner and drinks with live music—highly recommended!

I then headed to Lastarria, a trendy area packed with small bars, souvenir stands, and a nice view if you’re willing to hike up Cerro Santa Lucía.

After dinner, exhausted from the long journey, I collapsed into bed.

Day -2

After breakfast, I set off toward Paseo Ahumada, a pleasant pedestrian street and in a few minutes, I was at Plaza de la Constitución and Palacio de la Moneda, which reminded me of Spanish architecture.

Not far from there, I stopped at Plaza de Armas, where street performers entertained locals and tourists. A walk through Paseo Huerfanos is a must for shopping enthusiasts.

About 1.5 km away is the chaotic Central Market, where you need to keep an eye on your wallet.

Markets are fascinating to me—I love observing, smelling, and tasting things I’ve never tried before.

On my way to the next stop, I passed by Casa Colorada, the first president of Chile’s residence—not particularly impressive.

But finally, I arrived at La Chascona, the house of Pablo Neruda. The museum ticket was well worth it.

In the evening, I took the funicular up to Cerro San Cristobal, where the Immaculate Conception Sanctuary is located. The view was amazing, and the atmosphere was serene.

Afterward, I stopped by one of the restaurants in Bellavista for a steak before heading back to my apartment. The next day, an adventure awaited me.

Day -3

Before my trip, I booked a tour to Valparaiso through Viator, with a stop at a winery to sample Chilean wine.

I had selected a “small group” option, but to my surprise, I was the only one on the tour!

I politely asked if we could do the wine tasting on the return trip, as I wasn’t quite in the mood for wine that early in the day. The guide happily agreed and made a quick call to rearrange the schedule.

In under an hour and a half, we arrived in Valparaiso.

The city stretches across 42 hills, and the residents used ascensores (funiculars) to get around. We took one of the last functioning ones, the Reina Victoria.

Then, the guide led me to Paseo Gervasoni, a street filled with graffiti that showcases the best of Chilean street art. It also offered a stunning view of the ocean.

We continued to the “Museo a Cielo Abierto” (Open-Air Museum), where students from the local art institute spontaneously created murals and various artworks—great for photos! Before heading back to the winery, we stopped at the port district, with its Plaza Sotomayor.

On the way back to Santiago, we made a highly recommended stop for wine tasting. There are many vineyards offering this service, and with Chile’s exceptional grapes, it’s hard to go wrong.

I tasted Cabernet, Merlot, and was especially enchanted by the Carménère.

As we drove back to Santiago, we had a flat tire.

What could have been a frustrating moment turned into something unforgettable.

I got out of the car, not entirely sure where I was, thanked the guide, and began walking through a suburban neighborhood of Santiago. Near a bar, I saw a poster of a temple and realized it was the first Bahá'í temple in South America. I called a taxi, and within 10 minutes, I was at the base of the hill leading to the temple.

The Bahá'í religion is non-dogmatic and encourages individuals to seek their own truth.

The temple itself is circular and devoid of religious symbols. I found people of all races, languages, and faiths praying together—it was deeply moving and not what I expected to find in South America.

On the way back, the sky exploded into a fiery sunset, painting the sky orange (see photo below).

Sunsets are such a simple, everyday occurrence, yet they always leave me in awe.

I grabbed a few empanadas for dinner, tired but happy.

Day -4

For today’s excursion, I had also booked ahead, as there were limited spots and only a few tours offering this trip. At 7:00 AM, a 10-seat minibus picked me up from my apartment, heading to Cajón del Maipo.

The road out of Santiago gradually became more mountainous, and the Andean climate began to set in.

High peaks and dramatic landscapes alternated with herds of cows and sheep.

After two and a half hours, we arrived in an authentic paradise! Cajón del Maipo is a canyon nestled between 6,000-meter-high peaks, with rare vegetation and multicolored mountains due to the different minerals in the ground.

Words or photos simply can’t do justice to this place. check by yourself!

After a short hike, it was time to relax in the local hot springs.

The small, blue thermal pools, perched on a slope, contrasted beautifully with the green and brown mountains.

I knew this would be one of those unforgettable memories.

The area offers other activities, like horseback riding and bungee jumping. I would have loved to try the latter, but time was limited.

I returned from the trip satisfied and ready for tomorrow’s adventures—

I was headed to San Pedro de Atacama. But that’s a story for another post.

Food

The food in Chile is extraordinary. Empanadas make for the perfect snack—or even lunch! But when it comes to meat and wine, Chile truly shines. Grilled meat and a bottle of Carménère will make you happy! End the meal with typical Chilean dulce de leche!

My impressions

During my visit, Santiago seemed like a safe city to me, though with the usual precautions.

It’s probably not the most beautiful capital in South America, but it has a certain charm.

The city often exudes an air of austerity, and at times, even melancholy in many streets.

However, it can change your mind with its livelier neighborhoods and a good glass of Carmenere.

Valparaiso is worth a visit, though in my opinion, half a day is enough. The highlight of that day trip for me was the stop at the winery and the unexpected visit to the temple.

I enjoy planning everything, but when I find myself in unexpected situations, something good and unanticipated often happens.
However, the one thing that will stick with me the most from this entire area is Cajon del Maipo, with its stunning landscapes and hot springs.

When you think of a country or city you’ve visited, your mind often brings back images — mine are of the mountains from that excursion!